hey internet Gustavo here on the second week of keeners session 2.
Have you ever had that sensation when you do something and it just feels perfect? Even if that something is done daily by other people or even you have done it before but its just this time that you feel that something clicked and everything was perfect even if you know it wasn't. Like doing a skateboard trick and just feeling that it was the best anyone has ever done, or doing a loop in a small hole and feeling like you can do anything.
Yesterday, with the water level at just the right level we were able to surf the Waikiki wave at the bottom of the Lorne. This is a very challenging wave because you need to do a long ferry into the wave. After many attempts I finally managed to get on it, and realized why it is such a great wave. it is steap with fast moving glassy water going into it, this helps you get crazy air while not having to stabilize yourself. after an hour of surfing there I was only able to get in twice, but got one of the best surfs in my life almost sticking an air screw. It was there with that air screw that I didn't even stick that I felt that it clicked. It is in those moments that you know why it is that you love what you do.
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