Yesterday was beat down Thursday, and so I decided to surf right side. I had done it last week, but my skirt imploded both times and it wasn't very fun. This time, I was borrowing a better skirt!
I went down, and hit it straight on, bow first. It flipped me over. I was upside down for a long time, not really scared but also not super enthused about the whole experience. Later, one of the coaches told me that it looked like I was being eaten by a bear, and was playing dead - I had no confidence when confronting the hole, so it was just playing with me!
I was scared of the river for a long time, and my solution to that was just letting the river take me where it wanted. I've learned that the only way to paddle well and not get hurt is to realize that you are the one in control! The river is stronger than you are, but you can still control where you go, and how your surf or beatdown is.
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