Just before keeners, and before that, the biggest wave I had surfed was the wave in Columbus Whitewater park, which was somewhat big, but not HUGE. However, when I came to keeners, that changed. After seeing two rafts get beat down or "publicly shamed" in Mini Bus, I wanted to surf it. Only one Problem: I was scared of it! The wave was so deep looking ("toilet bowl") and had a huge foam pile that looked super intimidating. Despite seeing many people surf it, I was still not convinced, and just played the "oh, I tried to catch it but I was too far left. Whoopsie, I'll try harder next time!" Finally, On Big Water Bacon Beatdown Thursday, I got my first real taste of the wave! It was big, but it was also friendly. If one were to wipe out, they would flush quickly. Although this wave was big and powerful, it was more fun than scary. In fact, it was easier to surf that Garburator! One thing I did learn from surfing a big wave is that it is crucial to be aware of the rafts. At Buseater, it is important to have someone with a whistle to warn of any rafts coming through the wave. It is PAINFUL to get hit by a raft and is not enjoyable.
On Saturday, I was able to do a panam and an airscrew, after a long time of trying and yelling "I'm gonna do something!" One week ago, I would have never thought that I would enjoy spending a whole day on Buseater island, or surfing Buseater, let alone throwing tricks! This really goes to show how getting over one's fear of something can go a long way.
No comments:
Post a Comment