It was day 2 of being at Keeners and Steven took some of the group down the main channel. For the first half of the day we were surfing Waikiki and practicing kick flips which was sick! Then we worked our way down to butchers block and practiced mystery moves before heading to surf Triple Nipple.
When we got to Triple Nipple we got the run down from master Steven and he told us it would be the “smoothest wave you have ever surfed!” It was. Every time you thought you were flushing off the glassy part the ball of foam behind you would just catch you and you’d be fine. It was perfect for spins and blunts on the right side! When I hiked back up for my second lap Blake had come up with the great idea for a 4 person party surf and convinced Ian, Emery, and I to join him. Blake entered first then Ian surfed the top wave and dropped in and then it was my turn. I also caught the pre-wave then as I was dropping in I realized that Ian was right behind me but we both tried to move out of the way so I got hit by Ian’s bow and then rejected off the wave which was a bummer. Then Emery comes along and flushed himself and Blake then Ian pulled off and it felt anticlimactic but still kinda sick.
After Triple Nipple we decided to surf Big Kahuna which was MASSIVE! We got 3 laps of Coliseum in and every one was crazy. Then we paddled back to WT and since we were early we got some free time.
No comments:
Post a Comment